In Love With Colorful Bolivia!

We've already enjoyed a wonderful three weeks in Bolivia - time is flying! I'm going to cover the first half of our Bolivian adventure thus far in this blog post and Shelley is going to cover the second half in an upcoming blog post.


What We Love About Bolivia
As we walked across the La Quiaca/ Villazón border into Bolivia, we were immediately struck by the colorful outfits, aroma of delicious food wafting from the abundance of street food vendors, and the dramatic decrease in prices. When we ventured into the rural farm communities on our trek from Potosí to Cochabamba, we were overcome with the grandiosity of these rugged mountains and the simple, perfect lives of the colorful people living within them. We had a hunch we'd love this place from the stories of fellow travelers and friends, and we do! Here are a few of our favorite things:

People!
  • Despite warnings of ransom kidnappers and natives who sacrifice women and children, we have found people to be genuinely friendly, greeting us with big toothless smiles on the trail
  • Quechua is the dominant language in the rural areas of Bolivia. Most elderly and children do not know Spanish so usually we seek out the folks in between for translation.


Outfits!
  • Men, who farm the fields, wear colorful pointy winter hats with triangular ear flaps and occasionally colorful leg warmers or ponchos
  • The rural women of Bolivia wear knee-length skirts (usually velvet although not pictured) with a bustle and slip underneath, a lace or crochet button-down undershirt, sweater cardigan or shawl, stockings (if it is cold), recycled tire rubber sandals, and to top it all off, a Charlie Chaplin top hat or white straw sun hat with flowers. 
  • Womens' outfits usually do not match and almost always include something sparkly. Love it!
    Women are in charge of herding. They herd with a long-roped, sling-shot-like-whip-rock-thrower. They sling rocks at llamas, sheep, and goats to coax them along. If this doesn't sound badass enough to you... they do it in skirts!
Both men and women alike can wrap their lives (children, dogs, food etc.) into one colorful blaket they fold up, swing over their shoulder and tie around their chests for transport

Food!
  • Bolivia has got some spice! A mini bowl of picante (spicy salsa) is on the table of every restaurant and on the counter of every street vendors' cart.
  • Veggies are back in our diets! Their soups, salteñas, tucumanas and dinner plates (you will have to stay tuned for Sarah's comida post to find out what these new vocab words are!) are often vegetable-centric.
  • Spiced warm drinks and fruit juices
Shelley enjoying our favorite hot drink, api, a purple and white corn-based drink spiced with cinnamon and sugar
Sydney ordering salteñas from a street vendor

It's Dirt Cheap!
  • $7USD ($50BOB) - price of per person accommodation in the city of Potosi. Five of us stayed at the Koala Den in a private room with a private bathroom in full-sized beds with double comforters, with a two-course delicious breakfast, WiFi, computers, and a full DVD and book rental.
  • $2USD ($15BOB) - price of per person accommodation in the village of Ocurì. Four of us stayed in a safe, friendly, three-bed (stuffed with hay) bedroom above a restaurant (one-meal set menu) with a pour-water-in-the-bowl-to-flush-toilet and no shower.
  • $1.50USD ($10-12BOB) - milanesa (set two-course meal)
    $1USD ($6BOB) - I enjoyed this delicious one-plate lunch of whole wheat noodles, spicy chicken and vegetable stew, beets, onions, tomatoes and parsley


New Challenges In Route Finding!
  • After crossing the border we quickly found we had to adjust our Argentina and Chile route-finding method
  • Tourist information centers generally do not exist and if they do they do not have maps (?)
  • People in the city do not venture into the rural areas so we need to get into the rural areas before mapping out our precise route
  • Rural folk do not travel far (they travel by foot, not by horse like the ranchers in Argentina and Chile), so they aren't familiar with the land and roads more than a day or two's walk from their home 
  • We still ask ask ask! People are our map. The difference here in Bolivia is that we don't know what our map looks like more than a day or two ahead. 
    Asking where we could pitch a tent for the night from men in traditional garb (we think they must have been dressed up for something special) - turns out they only spoke Quechua so we had to continue to the next homestead


What have we been up to so far?

Kicking it off at the Uyuni Salt Flat
Before setting out on the trail from Potosí to Cochabamba, we made a must-see tourist stop at Bolivia's infamous Uyuni salt flat where we excitedly met up with our fifth chica loca, Sydney Doolittle, Shelley's friend from Breckenridge, who is hiking with us for five weeks through Bolivia. Instead of taking the more expensive traditional route of exploring the salt flat via a guided jeep tour, we ended up at an electronica festival for two nights of camping on the salt flat (we know, very hippie of us). The salt flat provided for several fun perception pictures and the best sunsets of our lives (Sarah and Shelley are now in agreement on the best sunset of the trip- Sarah previously voted for Estancia Aurora near Copahue, Argentina and Shelley for the a salt laguna near Antofogasta, Argentina).

Cinco chicas locas from left to right: Sonnet, Shelley, Sarah, Sydney and Trinity
Sarah and Shelley pushing Trinity into her Gossamer backpack
Sarah making a wish upon tres locas
Sydney contemplating where the sunset begins and salt flat ends.
It was as if we were stepping into pools of sunset.


Beautiful City of Potosí
From Uyuni we took a thankfully uneventful bus ride east to Potosí. Potosí completely surprised us compared to the dusty, somewhat run-down streets of small Uyuni. Potosí's high-walled cobblestone pedestrian streets reminded us of Italy. Potosí was once (in the 1500s) one of the largest and richest cities in the world due to its establishment as a silver mine for the Spanish Empire. It is also one of the highest cities in the world at 4,090m (13,420ft).

From nearly every street you could see ahead to a beautiful stone church, old bell tower, vibrant plaza or decorated arch

Shelley on street of Potosí

Hitting the Trail - from Potosí to Ocurì
From Potosí we hit the trail north through the mountains to Cochabamba. We had no idea what to expect. Our scientist, Peter, informed us that we'd be going through a roadless area of 2.8 million hectars (the size of the state of Vermont) and was curious how we would navigate the never-ending "ups and downs". To our surprise, roughly one day out of the city, we found ourselves hiking on unmapped rural dirt roads cutting corners around mountains and switchbacking to and from valleys. On top of that, we found ourselves surrounded by people! In Argentina and Chile, we would see evidence of civilization roughly once a day at a cowboy outpost or corral. Here among the rural farming communities of Bolivia, we see people on the hour and would pass through a few villages per day. Our surroundings were breathtaking- red and purple mountains covered in a patchwork of small farming plots that appear as if they are going to slip off the mountain into the valleys below.

Beautiful late afternoon view over the farms near Cienguillas
Nice dirt road!
Farm plots bordered with stone walls- possibly evidence of farming practices sustained from the Incan empire centuries before
Shelley and Sonnet walking on a shortcut path between farm plots on the way to Taitani.
Trinity, Sonnet and Sydney walking down a tight pathway in Tinguipaya
Tinguipaya
Pre-fueling in Tinguipaya before climbing switchbacks up the other side of the valley we descended into that morning from Taitani- enjoying a hearty lunch of rice, egg, potato, tomato and of course picante ($1USD or $8BOB)
Road leading through the mountains
Patchwork of farm plots
Do they rope up on belay to harvest these plots?


High Points
Relaxing in an old Incan bathing ground, "Ojo del Inca", a hot spring in the crater of an extinct volcano (reaching 22m in depth in the center) - pictured at sunrise
Reading aloud Sonnet's The 5 Love Languages by Dr. Gary Chapman. It has allowed us to re-examine every relationship in our life AGAIN on the trail.
  • Sleeping at 4,400m (14,435ft) - highest campsite yet!
  • Note to our parents for future birthdays: we all want donkeys. They are the darndest cutest animals ever!
  • Potatoes and sheep's cheese! Our new friend Filomena shared her mother's precious potatoes and goat cheese with Sonnet and me- one of the best things we have ever tasted!!
  • Girl talk as we were going to bed with sweet and giggly Daisy and Lucinda- two girls who hosted us in their home in Taitani. They didn't know where the United States or Atlantic Ocean were (although we ironically spent 15 minutes trying to figure out how to plug their cell phones into various extension cords).
  • I accompanied Sonnet back to Potosí where she caught a bus to La Paz- our fellow travelers included a ram and bag of chickens
    Sonnet climbing over the ram during a snack stop
  • Sarah, Shelley and Sydney arrived in Ocurí in time for a delicious, warm lunch of vegetable soup and a lunch plate of rice, vegetables and egg
  • Despite occasionally being short of breath on the switchbacks at 14,000ft, Bolivia's current environment (hopefully I don't jinx us) is generally ideal for hiking- it's warm with a light breeze, no precipitation (but there are running rivers for drinking water), a low-arc sun, and cool nights (it also never snows in this region)
  Low Points
  • Shelley used her USA passport throughout Argentina and Chile and opted to use her Canadian passport to enter Bolivia since it's hassle and duty free (Sarah, Sonnet and I had to fill out an extensive visa form in the Bolivian consulate in Jujuy, Argentina and pay $158USD). When we arrived at the border, they wouldn't let her use the Canadian passport because it didn't have an exit stamp from Argentina. After much debate, she ended up having to pay the $158USD to cross the border (but ironically didn't have to fill out any of the visa paperwork?!).
  • Sonnet got sick in Potosí so we decided to meet the chicas the next day at Ojo del Inca. There was a road block due to labor strike that Sonnet and I had to navigate around via a combination of taxi, micro bus and foot. The chicas just walked right through- easier by foot!
  • Sarah has eating utensil bad luck- this whole trip she has been wishing for Shelley's and my Guyot Designs Microbites Utensils. Her most recent eating utensil (a spoon from a hostel) was dropped into the deep hot springs of Ojo del Inca. Here's to hoping it arrives in our June resupply!
  • Sarah being eaten by Shelley from the very spork Sarah wished she had
"That's where they kill people and their heads roll off!", exclaimed this Taitani girl as she pointed across the valley to the switchbacking road that we would be following to Ocurí the next day (you can faintly see it in the background). However, only during the 3rd of May fiesta (Shelley will have more on this in the next blog post).
  • It took me two days of travelling via bus and paid hitching to meet back up with the chicas after accompanying Sonnet back to Potosí - shows how far out there they were!
  • Saying goodbye to Sonnet who was our faithful companion for two months (one sixth of our trip!). Sonnet, we miss your generous sharing of snacks, your bedtime stories, valuable decision-making skills, and company on the trail. For me personally, I feel so blessed to have shared this experience with you. Thank you for joining us and perhaps we can convince you to return for Ecuador??
Sonnet twirling as the sun goes down on the salt flat

2 comments:

  1. I always look forward to your posts and vicariously traveling with you on your great adventure.

    Another blog I follow is in Bolivia right now as well:

    http://www.cyclingthe6.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete
  2. Live on a Country farm in a safe, unspoiled country environment and enjoy Farm Fresh dairy, fruit and vegetables produced on site.
    Lands in Hyderabad
    Land in Hyderabad
    Buy Property in Hyderabad
    Lands Sales in Hyderabad
    Land Sale in Hyderabad

    ReplyDelete