"Colon"-ary Experiences!!

The border from Argentina to Bolivia was just another "crossing" along our journey. Sure, we were excited for the cheap prices and unique culture, but what we ended up getting far surpassed our expectations. There were many cultural changes that we readily accepted and loved; however, the food changes took the cake, minus the stomach issues associated with this new food culture. Argentine and Chilean meals, for the most part, centered around meat and white bread. Vegetables, whole grains, and fruits were a rarity in restaurants and home cooking. If we wanted to fill up on veggies (since we can't take that many on the trail, we rely heavily on veggie-loading while in towns) we had to do it on our own, meaning cooking most of our meals in the places where we stayed. This wasn't negative at all; in fact, it was ideal since prices in Argentina and Chile are on the steep side. Plus, quite often we were able to find perfectly ripe and flavorful produce in the stores. When we did go out for a meal it was usually along the lines of a cheese pizza with only a few tomatoes and olives, a vegetarian sandwich, or something relating to a salad. We did enjoy some aspects of Argentine and Chilean cuisine of course - the excessive amount of fresh basil they piled on top of pizzas, empanadas, the sweets such as alfajores, ice cream and dulce de leche, and of course, the wine! 

Bolivia was breath of fresh air, or a taste of fresh food rather - vegetarian based meals, whole grains, and spice - and for practically no financial cost (albeit there was a health cost...). It was just as cheap to eat out in a restaurant as it was to buy groceries and cook a meal, so we found ourselves often frequenting the local eateries and street vendors. Not only did this expose us to a wide range of local flavors and dishes, but it also revealed to us an impressive variety of stomach bugs. We had been warned of the food and water bacterial issues from Bolivia northward, so we knew we were being aggressive with the food, but often it was just too good to pass up!! Entirely invigorated with these new foodways, we tried everything Bolivia had to offer and more: 

• Api and pastel - Api is a warm white or blue corn-based drink spiced with cinnamon and sugar. It is always served with a side of fry bread (similar to a beignet) served plain, with powdered sugar, or our favorite, stuffed with salty cheese AND topped with powdered sugar (if you want). 
• "Milanesa" is the word for a chicken-fried steak sandwich in Argentina (we've referred to its deliciousness in previous blog posts). In Bolivia it means a set two-course $1.50USD meal of heart-warming broth-based vegetable soup (sometimes with meat) and a plate of rice, vegetables, and meat or eggs.
• Chicha - the "wine" of Bolivia in the form of spit-harvested fermented corn (yes, spit). This is not our favorite. 
• PICANTE!! (spicy salsa) - Bolivia has got some spice! The dishes themselves aren't spicy, but a mini bowl of picante is on the table in every restaurant and on the counter of ever street vendors' cart. The locals are always impressed by our ability to put back some picante.  
• Salteñas - A relative of the empanada but made with a sweet corn flour dough and filled with a veggie-ful stew. You have to take care when eating these pockets of tastiness because the stew-y sauce on the inside will spill out everywhere! These are usually served with some type of picante - which we generously add.
• Tucumanas - Similar to the salteña but wheat flour based, deep-fried, and with not so much of a liquid stew mixture as a potato-veggie mixture inside. The topping for these can vary from pickled onions to cucumber to various picantes.
• Coca leaves - In the rural areas nearly everyone has a wad of coca leaves stuck between their lower gum and lip. They use a sugar gum to bring out the coca high and make the slightly bitter taste more palatable (possible a reason behind all the toothless smiles). It is also very common to put the leaves in hot water for coca tea - our preferred way of have the leaves. 
• Sopa de maní (peanut soup) - This soup is traditionally lightly peanut-flavored with a blended potato base (giving it a polenta-like texture). It also comes in powdered form so we have added it to our dinner menu!
• Sopa de Verduras: So many varieties of vegetable soup! Usually with rice, quinoa, noodles or potatoes and plenty of leafy greens! 
• Potatoes and sheep's cheese - Our new friend Filomena (a rural Bolivian native who moved to Israel with her Israeli husband ten years ago), shared her mother's precious potatoes and goat cheese with Sonnet and Trinity - one of the best things they claim to have ever tasted!! Shelley and I are still waiting for our experience with this one. 
• Quinoa and fresh cheese: This little plate is served up from breakfast to mid-day. The quinoa is hot, garnished with a few steamed green onions and other greens and a spoonful of fresh, soft cheese. Of course picante is an option!  

Shelley and Sydney buying saltenas in Potosi 

All the stunningly vibrant colors of Bolivian spices

Shelley and Sydney "enjoying" chicha at a village party

The always reliable vegetable soup 

Rice, potatoes, fried eggs, and tomatoes - a lunch staple 

The Tres Chicas enjoying api! One of our all time faves!

Heading into Peru we were saddened to say goodbye to the salteñas and tucumanas of Bolivia but eager to see what Peru had to offer. Essentially the same food concepts in Peru comprise the cuisine base (especially in the Andean regions), yet there is a stronger meat component in the meals which seems to partially replace the quinoa-veggie power combo of Bolivia. However, when we arrived in the Lake Titicaca region we were welcomed with a wholesome seafood aspect as Peruvian cuisine has a significant fish influence from both the lakes and the ocean. Regional influences also seem to play a stronger role in Peruvian cuisine with notable differences in the North, South and Coast (as well as the Amazon but that is out of our food-sphere). We welcomed the new foodways of Peru and had some delectably gourmet meals in Cusco. Some other of our favorite Bolivian traditions continued on, including fresh fruit and veggie smoothies, markets, and fried eggs always as a substitute for meat. Unfortunately thus far we have not fared any better with the stomach illnesses - it is probably safe to say that we will not have normal functioning bowels until once back in the states. 

• Cuy - guinea pig - considered a delicacy here. They serve it sliced, diced and on a stick. Guinea pigs run freely around people's homes like chickens do elsewhere 
• Alpaca - A surprisingly tender and flavorful meat, this can be found on menus where one would normally find beef.
• Pisco - The "wine" of Peru, pisco is a liquor made from grapes. Pisco goes in everything but it is especially delicious in Pisco Sours and Vino Caliente (hot mulled wine).
• Chicha Morada - Different from the Bolivian "corn beer" this refreshing chicha is made from blue corn, spices and lemon. 
• Mazamorra - Arroz con leche (ride pudding) with a sweet blue corn sauce on top and garnished with shredded coconut and sweetened condensed milk! What a treat and all for about $0.50 USD. 
• Chicharrones - Basically fried pork - skin, fat, whatever. They also do other meat variations so if you're not so much of a fried pork fat person you can opt for fried chicken fat. 
• Chuafas - A South American take on fried rice. There is a decent Chinese cuisine influence in Peru - Chinese restaurants are called Chifas.
• Choclo con queso - A street food of corn on the cob served with cheese and sometimes a spicy sauce 
• Coffee!! For the first time on our trip we have been able to find good coffee..quite appreciated!
• Ceviche - Fish or shellfish "cooked" in lime juice. It's very tangy and usually served with red onions and some other veggies with a side of rice. I was able to find some great hearts of palm ceviches (note seafood allergy) in Ecuador
• Maca - A root vegetable native to the Peruvian and Bolivian high Andes, it is most commonly served dried then mixed into a warm drink. Perfect on a cold day! 
• Ají - as opposed to "picante" in Bolivia

The most delectable chocolate covered donuts - simply irresistible. This lady also
made my tasty birthday cake. She was quite the baker! 

One of the hundreds of varieties of potatoes. There used to be over 4,000
types of potatoes in Peru, but now there are only about 500 

We could never get enough of the fresh produce 

Spice everywhere!!! So many flavors and colors, it was simply divine 

Noodles topped with a plethora of fresh vegetables 

A common street-side stand serving up a super sweet cinnamon drink

Yup, the little guys are a raised-for-consumption animal  

A Chifa meal - wonton soup (nothing like U.S. wonton soup) and a chaufa dish 

We always called these little eggs "quail eggs" but turns out they are from a bird called Codorniz

It took almost our whole time in Peru to finally try the little egg nuggets of flavor, and
afterwards we couldn't believe we had waited so long! The small hard-boiled eggs were amazing!
Plus they peel them for you and serve them with a spicy sauce. Too good!  

As we continue on our journey, the culinary experiences never cease to impress us. Each region and culture teaches us so much solely through food - food is the center of all cultures. We have seen how communities and families work together, how modern foodways have effected the rural regions, and how some people are so deeply rooted to their indigenous ways and histories. Despite the colon effects from our culinary adventures, we have loved everything we have experienced. Many people often fail to recognize the importance of food; it is our livelihood - it brings us together, fuels our bodies, and nourishes our souls. Watching the people down here be so intimately involved in the procuring of their food, out there day-in and day-out herding their sheep or harvesting their potatoes, reminds me of how disconnected our modern society is to food. We often take for granted the overflowing cornucopia of foods available to us year round. Someone is growing and raising and transporting what we eat, often in surplus and out of season, daily. If we all take a step back from the fast-paced world of to-go meals and working lunches to simply observe the powerful energy between our bodies and the earth, then we may have a better chance of connecting to our food - which can lead to happier and healthier lives and a better environment. Through our new South American culinary encounters the tres chicas are one step closer to understanding and fully appreciating the cultures of the world. 

The cutest, smallest avocados we had ever seen! When you cut it in half the barely 
developed seed easily spliced in two. We were gifted these during a hike. 

The fleshy orange inside of a lúcuma resembles a sweet potato

Beautiful fresh lúcumas

Abundant and cheap

Always a surprise to find chicken feet in the vegetable soup

I came across this delicious drink at a random festival in
Bolivia - liquor, hot frothy milk, coconut, and nutmeg  

Ordering a fresh juice smoothie - papaya, banana, pineapple, carrot, anything you want - all for about $1USD

Fried eggs on everything! Even potato, peanut scramble with pasta
 (one of the more unusual meals but still delicious!!)

A typical market scene

EAT!! (hike, sleep, hike)

Food! Glorious, wonderful food. It probably has had the largest impact on our experiences thus far (well okay, as far as I am concerned). From stuffed to starved to just downright content, our trip consistently revolves around food - or the lack thereof. The importance of food extends far beyond the trail; however, in respect to this post´s length, I will, reluctantly, steer away from the cultural analysis (from where many of our memories have formed) and rather focus on the hiking/sustenance aspect.

Throughout the past few months we have altered our eating habits significantly as we tinker with calories, flavor, weight, and accessible supplies. I have kept a daily journal documenting our food consumption on and off the trail. There have been more than a few days of complete gluttony, brief periods of starvation, unintentional lack of fuel, notable differences between Chilean and Argentinian products, and various phases of food obsessions. Finally after three months on the trail we have almost perfected our food allowances! Perhaps the pounds we have all seemed to pack on quite nicely will start to diminish...

A few notes of importance:
- We share dinner and breakfast, but after a few weeks of sharing lunch and snacks we decided to do those individually.
- The only time we cook is for dinner.
- Dinner is not elaborate or gourmet by any means. We prepare prepackaged instant meals or cook pasta; we always add salt (Trin and Shelley really love the salt) and some spice (red pepper flakes or merquen).
- We ideally should be eating around 3,000 calories per day while on the trail; a bit more in the cold and less in the heat. 
- Our hiking distance averages around 20km per day - significantly more on roads (up to 37km) and sometimes less on trails with difficult terrain/excessive bushwacking.

Oftentimes, we quickly become fanatic with a new product only to burn out a month later - I actually am not sure I will ever be able to eat oatmeal again after this year. Luckily, we have an ever-flowing input of new foods and ideas thanks to people we meet along the way. Following is a list of things we have discovered and love(d).

- Milo: kind of similar to Ovaltine, an instant powdered malty chocolate mix supplemented with vitamins. Thank you Austrailians for this one.
- Harina Tostada: toasted flour, has the nuttiness of frosted mini wheats but a texture resembling cream of wheat. Thanks to Don Rial.
- Merquen (Merken): a richly flavored red pepper based spice from Chile. Thanks go to Louis and Lourdes from the Salmo Patagonia Lodge in Coyhaique.
- Poundcake: self explanatory. Trinity discovered this during a period of low food while in Torres Del Paine.
- Golden Raisins: massive, juicy and super sweet, we discovered these fairly early on and still love them.
- Salty Sticks: inch long, thin, fried bread sticks covered in an overwhelmingly large, yet necessary, amount of salt
- Powdered Juices: all brands and flavors but we are particularly fond of plantano-naranja, pera, and naranja flavors.
- Flax Seeds (ground): again, no description needed. We supplement our breakfasts with these when available.
- Chia Seeds: taste best with juice (Trin's new obsession, but I think the texture vaguely resembles phlegm).
- Instant Soup Packets: we add these to everything - it provides that extra "umph" often lacking in our dinners.
- Arroz Primavera: a pre-mixed rice packet which we have deemed far superior to all other flavors. 
- Energy Balls: a varying mixture of ingredients formed into golf ball sized balls. They include any combination of the following: oatmeal, oat bran, powdered milk, honey, brown sugar, sugar, dulce de leche, peanuts, raisins, chocolate, grated coconut, and salt. 

Changes have inevitably occured along the way. We evolved from snacking on energy balls to rolls of cookies to cereal. We went from red pepper flakes to Merquen. We used to carry a kilo of chocolate as an after dinner sweet and now we bring none at all (Trinity still brings her own personal stash). We went from hardly any carbs to a super carb-loaded diet. Chile has peanut butter but lacks the variety of packaged pastas and rices. Argentina has canned beans and stellar empanadas (which we sometimes bring on the trail for a lunch or two). Undoubtedly, when we finally feel comfortable with our food selections in these two countries we will be met with an entirely new slew of products in Bolivia. Be that as it may, I cannot wait to see what the upcoming countries will bring!

In regards to general nutrition, we are trying to balance our food as much as possible while maintaining our light-weight status. This means bringing about one piece of fruit per day with dried fruit supplementing fresh during longer stretches, not packing canned food, sharing one veggie at dinner, and buying products supplemented with protein.  Protein products are by far the most difficult to acquire. Coming from previously vegetarian and/or vegan lifestyles, processed meat products are not entirely appealing and do not settle as well in our stomachs. Cheese was a great option until summer arrived and now it melts into a greasy, slimy mess. Peanut butter is only found in certain cities in Chile (we miss it SO much). When available, we buy garbanzo beans then drain and bag them in town for the first day or two on the trail. If garbage cans will be present, Shelley and Trinity often will bring a can or two of tuna along as well (not me, note seafood allergy). However, carbs are what keep us trekking along. Cereal has proven to be our go-to snack with the salty sticks suppressing our sodium cravings. Purchasing rolls from Panaderias in town has also been a pleasant addition to our lunches, and the powdered juice mixes offer a great little lift of sweetness throughout the day. Although not completely ideal (we miss our state-side hiking foods), we feel generally satisfied while on the trail; then once in towns, we load up on veggies, fruits and whole grains if possible - and wine and beer but that's another thing altogether.

Here are a few daily logs exhibiting our varying degrees of food consumption.

B = breakfast  S = snacks  L = lunch  D = dinner

Oct. 8: no fuel, first week out, hungry
B: oatmeal w/ powdered milk, oat bran, raisins, brown sugar
S: peanuts, cookies
L: salami, mozzarella, green olives, prunes, raisins
D: veggies (avocado, yellow bell peppers, carrots), piece of chocolate bar with peanuts, orange

Oct. 28: few weeks in, low-carb days
B: oatmeal w/ powdered milk, brown sugar, raisins
S: our homemade "energy balls", apple
L: salami, cheese, pieces of chocolate bar
D: prepackaged pesto pasta w/ half of an instant veggie soup packet, tomato, red bell pepper

Nov. 1: Torres Del Paine, gluttony
B: oatmeal w/ powdered milk, sugar, raisins
S: chocolate covered biscuit cookies, cream filled cookies, prunes, peanuts, more cookies
L: peanut butter and jelly on rolls, peanut butter on chocolate chip cookies
D: four cheese pasta, bread

Nov. 13: hiking out of El Chalten, high calorie/high mileage day
B: oatmeal w/ All Bran, sugar
S: chocolate covered peanuts, chocolate cream filled cookies, apple, granola, snickers, prunes
L: bread rounds w/ mayo, ham, cheese, and avocado, cookies from a Panaderia
D: arroz primavera w/ soup packet and 2 tomatoes, honey cookies, pieces of chocolate bar with almonds

Nov. 28: Post Don Rial, very low calorie/high extertion day
B: harina tostada w/ oatmeal, milo
S: week old dry roll, hard boiled egg, spoonfull of jam
L: harina tostada w/ sugar
D: oatmeal w/ milo

Dec. 8: almost figuring it out, high exertion day
B: oatmeal w/ milo, harina tostada
S: vino crackers, chocolate covered biscuit cookies, cheetos mix, honey flakes cereal, snickers
L: 2 rolls w/ cheese and jam
D: bite sized angel hair pasta w/ spaghetti sauce, dried veggies, and red bell pepper, milo, pieces of chocolate

Dec. 17: just about right
B: oatmeal w/ harina tostada, sugar, flax seeds and milo, juice
S: multigrain cheerios, juice, 2 hardboiled eggs, dried apricots
L: roll w/ tomato, cheese, avocado, juice
D: soup packet with the small angel hair pasta and tomato

Dec. 31: perfect 
B: oatmeal w/ harina tostada, flax seeds, milo and brown sugar, juice
S: cereal, salty sticks, juice, apple
L: roll w/ avocado, tomato and cheese
D: spiral pasta with spaghetti sauce, green bell pepper


So, our breakfast mixture is perfected, our snacks (salty sticks, cereal, juice, and fruit) well-balanced, and our dinners simple, quick and tasty. We may have finally nailed it. Salud!!

low point on a hungry day: lunch consisting of cheese with mayo

our improvised wind shield and (not our favorite) pasta dinner

example lunch from early on in our trip

the avocados here are amazing!! Delicious, cheap and surprisingly durable

super questionable meat product

our famous pico de gallo

we love the fruit and veggie markets! 

Q&A

We've been getting lots of questions from friends and family... here are some answers. Keep asking!

What exactly are you doing?
We’re hiking (as much as we can) from Ushuaia, Argentina to Quito, Ecuador over the course of a year.

When do you leave? Where are you starting and ending?
September 28, 2011. We’ll fly to Buenos Aires, Argentina for a couple days and then we’ll fly to the southern tip of South America, Ushuaia, Argentina, to begin hiking north along the Andes in early October which is springtime in the southern hemisphere. We intend to “beat the snow” by hiking north. We plan to end the trip in Quito, Ecuador (we are not hiking Colombia and Venezuela due to security reasons).

Are you really hiking the whole way?
Our intention is to hike most of the year although we won’t walk the entire distance. We are “benchmarking” our trip (refer to our Route page) to maintain a schedule and provide general direction. If we aren’t going to reach a particular benchmark as scheduled, we will find alternate means of transportation to arrive on time.

Is there a trail?
No. There will be some trails along the way, but there’s no designated trail extending the length of the continent. Yay orienteering skills!

What will your schedule be like?
Ideally we’ll hike six days a week and rest for one day in a location where we can resupply food. About once a month we’ll take a longer rest period (3-4 days at a WWOOF, tourist destination or larger town) in a location where we can replace gear in addition to resupply food.

How far will you be hiking each day?
With a good trail, we expect to hike 20-25 kilometers per day. Without a trail, it will depend on the terrain.

What are you bringing?
This will be a blog posting by itself. Lightweight backpacking will allow us to hike longer, faster and healthier. We anticipate carrying approximately 20lbs. each (including what we’re wearing and excluding food). We’ll be posting an itemized gear list later this summer.

What will you eat?
We look forward to eating a diet consistent (however many more calories) with the culture we’re in at any given time. Sarah, with her vast culinary and nutritional education and experience, will be writing blog posts describing the food and our diet along the way. Sarah’s food posts will fall under the COMIDA by Sarah Field category on the right sidebar.

Are you training in preparation for the trip?
Not outside of regular athletic regimens. There’s no way to train for a trip like this, so we'll just start on the trail

Do you speak Spanish?
Trinity and Shelley speak Spanish. Sarah speaks French and looks forward to learning Spanish!

Tell us about your scientific data collection projects.
We're going to be collecting data during our journey for scientists back in the U.S.A. You can read more about it here.

Are you finished planning?
Pretty much – we’ve researched and planned our benchmarks, gear list and visa requirements. We'll be mapping out our hiking route, resupply stops and extended rest stays along the way once we have a feel for the terrain, culture and resupply accessibility. With respect to detailed route planning, we've decided “less is more” in order to maintain flexibility.

Are you bringing protection?
At the very least we’ll carry pepper spray. We’re researching taser regulations for each country and at border crossings. All three of us will be taking self-defense classes before the trip. Although we understand there are dangers that cannot be anticipated, we feel our best safeguard is using common sense and following our gut instincts. We will also be carrying and checking in with a SPOT Personal Tracker.

Are you writing a book?
We'll start with the blog for now (c: